You’re a bit outside my normal work area. So I’m totally guessing:
My first guess is a loose cable (or a connector too far in). You’d be surprised how much a loose cable can screw up. So make sure everything is seated properly. :note: remember flat wire isn’t like “3D” cable connectors. Putting the ends in all the way is not always the proper alignment. I see issues like this in old laptops a lot.
My second guess would be something somewhere grounding out wrong. A wire not fully inserted (again), a piece of loose solder, your daughter’s bracelet.. Etc. I take this from my extensive knowledge of BetaMax/BetaChord players; where a grounding issue that doesn’t burst into flames outputs garbage on the video channel, if anything at all.
My final guess is a blanked controller, depending on the age and brand. A fair number of LCD units, from ancient to today, save system commands on an EEPROM chip. Static can flash it blank. Assuming you don’t have one of the earliest LCD units with a socketed rom; Look carefully at the main board for an array of two or three small pins and a marking of PG, PR, ROM etc next to it. Epr was common in the mid 90s as well. Any variance in erase(able) program(able)(ing)(er) ROM. [pro note] also look for a set of two or three blank bare, filled in, through holes. Some manufacturers (LG is notorious) use these “pads” rather than pins to deter 3rd party flashing. Actually that last guess is the majority issue for blank screens after a repair. And you can’t fault LG. If I was crazy enough I could flash Linux onto my smart tv and have a full fledged computer. But the big issue for them is that they sell the same tv at different prices based on the included software . And services pay based on inclusion. So if I flashed Kodi or MythT to my LG to get my Netflix they don’t get the contracted payment for that use.
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