I was cleaning up in the shop it's pretty cold to do much. Saw this piece laying around. Looked it up on digikey said it was a thermal relay. I think the thing came from some window air conditioner.
Anyway, I popped(smashed) it open to get some brass out and noticed this magnetic metal.
I've seen it before but I usually toss it into steel. Looks more than just a piece of steel i especially in a relay.

My best guess is nickel which is magnetic in its purer alloys and alone.
Could also be silver carbide. Or about 30 other elements and a few hundred alloys.

Bottom line is it needs to be scanned.
Best we can do is if you want to toss it in purified (reverse osmosis or distilled) water and weigh the volume distribution depression we can stab a guess based on size measurements. ;)

But yeah it is probably going to be nickel or some sort of alloy.

Thats fine.

Hey but i got my hands on a heatgun. Previous post you said that you took a heat gun to the back of a lowgrade board and gave it a whack and most of the pieces come off. I am having a hard time even getting one piece to come off. The thing heats up to 1000F that should be good. Detailed tutorial please?

I'll post photos of my kit setup shortly so you have a good idea. I bought the heat gun and propane/mapp torch new. Everything else was from good will. Pan was 50c grate was $1 etc.

Depends on both the board and the mounting. Surface mount will always slide off easily where through mount (pins/pegs through or in thr board) may need to be pulled out after a thorough heating. Use gloves and plyers to br safe. If it's not coming out after a good minute or two at 1000° you probably should give it a good tug.
Some rare cases where something is heavy or designed for extremes in environment you may have a spot welded mount and you're never gonna get that out with a heat gun. These cases usually involve a thick heavy (and often slightly magnetic) board often with an unusually smooth surface. Cutting At the pins/pegs with a rotary tool is best on these.

finally if it's designed for water resistance like appliances or automotive equipment etc it's probably got a sealant on the board. Try torching a heavy duty knife blade with propane and etching around the pins/pegs to break the sealant. These are NOT good boards for heating though since many water sealants are extremely toxic.

Pics posted.
It takes time. And Every gun is different. Getting the distances and settings correct. Once you have it... it's better than clockwork. Don't give up. The more you practice the easier it gets.

And yes that's two different boards. Wasn't going to work on one at the moment.

Its just too cold man i was in my garage for about 1/2 hour before i called quits. Leaving the door open to ventilate air in near zero temps just doesnt work.

About the sealants, youll be able to notice a sealant on it most of the time right?

Understand the weather, it's been -10 to 10 here all week.

Yes... 99 percent of the time you'll know it's got a sealant. I say 99 because in e-scrap there are always exceptions.
Dupont heatsafe comes to mind. Found in dlp projectors and commercial barcode scanners like ups or supermarket scanners. This is a clear Teflon applied in micrometer thickness but with this stuff the big aluminium or copper heatsinks are a giveaway as they'll be touching almost every ic and chip on the board. Look for a colour difference on large ics to see where heat spreaders have been removed and there's no sealant.

These are bimetal switches that cut power to the compressor if it gets too hot! They expand when they get hot enough, and cut power to the compressor if it's hot enough, not sure what they are made of though