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I meant was these things that have multiple legs, see pic. This is considered a resistor? Can't be considered IC? I've only read this. I'm new to this so I only have an IC, flat pack, 3 pin with multiple pin too transistors(I'll post pic soon tell me if I'm doing this wrong), al caps, crystal Ocs, fuse and fuse holders, and a looks like worth taking off container which is overfilling.

Why did u call that brass/ceramic resistors? Aren't those essentially plastic coated copper or those are brass

I realize the gallery notes are Lacking. Honestly I'm not at this point even sure where the discussion is anymore.
The basic notation though was to IC chips, not resistors. No mass production integrated circuit unit has ever been made in SIP (single inline pin) format so if it has less than 4 legs or is in sip form there's a 99 point something probability it's a resistor. generally ICs will have atleast 6 pins.
The only exceptions I know of are the memory bank controllers from TI used in their 8 bit units. Which are sip pin format technically but wedge pegs is more descriptive.

Sip resistors
They are usually silver plated brass backs. Something called mag brass by the dod guide which is generally 90+ percent copper with nickel and magnesium.
I refer to them as ceramic out of habit. You're correct that the vast majority of modern sip resistors will be plastic housing.

You're doing fine, great. You pick up really quickly. ;)

Thank You.
These pics will clarify a lot for me. There is a lot of them but this will really help me altogether.


Pic 20: These are all lightweight ballasts?

Pic 21: What do these two go as? Especially that 3 pinned one. Ive seen some that short but can have 10 pins.

Pic 22: Lightweight Ballasts? The one on the left is 4 pin (I think that came from a ceiling fan)

Pic 23: What do I do with these? Looks like a headphone jack. That metal was pulled from that piece. What does that metal go as.

Pic 24 & 25: What the heck is this? Those two discs inside were ceramic, I believe.

Pic 26: Black box is a fuse I think but no glass-does this go with the glass fuses? The second item has ferrite or similar on the outside- what should this go as? Orange item- What is it?

Pic 27: What do you do in these situations with the connections that are soldered on the board.

Pic 28 & 29: Visegrips work well on removing these. What would this go as-can this go with the various others pins that you pull out of the board ? I used to just put it with brass scrap.

Pic 30: What to do with these?

Pic 31: I read a post about these jumpers. Cut them all off and pile them seperate? I can't really notice a pink hue unless I had an example.

Pic 33: Three piles- anything special about any of these or just brass pile. Top left is from AC plugins to wall. Right is from analog video ports. Bottom left is from those little metal boxes that have a separate board in them from TVs-Just brass?

Pic 34: Similar question with Pic 37...

Pic 35: Sorted well? - all CBM#3? What is the circled item. I have seen these were it looks like a drop of epoxy with wither one or two colored circles.

Pic 37: Transistors right? Mostly copper. This is what I was talking about in my last post-the ones that are circled. The circled red have many pins. The circled blue has 4 pins. Can these just be all mixed together? The circled red ones are what I was talking about how I read that these can be classified as IC (I was really unsure about what I read).


Thank you so much.

Well you have learned, young padawan...

20)yes i usually sell those as lt ballasts

21)the small one I batch as organic capacitor
The large one, i usually put those in silver heavy (different yards take them differently. Inside is a large thick rod that will be silver /nickel, nickel, or on rare occasions a palladium nickel alloy. Many of them are toxic to some degree so I no longer crush them myself.

22) both would go as relays.

23)the headphones jack would be silver connector if its non-magnetic. (Silver plate) or nickel connector if its magnetic.
The flat pieces will be silver plated brass/copper rate if nonmagnetic. If it sticks to a magnet Snip it with a pair of shears. If it's silver colour inside it's clean nickel. If its gold, yellow or red inside its nickel plated brass/copper. Price of nickel plate and silver plate are about the same but could get sorted separately

24)Toss it in relay and move on.

25)Looks like some sort of resistance based relay.


26)the black square would go with plastic fuses the middle one with your three legged + "ceramic" resistors. It's a sheet of nickel inside most likely ferrite or hematite. the white one with lte ballasts

27)rock the plastic housing with robo grips or vice grips and it will pull loose. If pins stick in the plastic silver connector. If the pins stay in the board snip them. Could be silver or nickel or plated. See above for figuring it out.

28)yes, see above. Silcer, nickel, or some plating. The 3 pin power jack (actually all of them) is usually nickel or silver plated nickel
29)

30)if it comes out whole silver or nickel connector. If you get pins silver or nickel pins

31)Only way to be sure is having them tested but they all look to be nickel. Xx59-62 may be silver. Left side. Call the yard ahead if your bringing in any quantity or they'll not be happy.


32)missing

33)top left and right anything that sticks is stainless nickel, or steel. If it doesn't silver stainless or silver plate.
Bottom left the jacks are silver connector. The nut is probably stainless.

34)ceramic resistors (plastic hehe) cut the pins and see above for placement of them.

35)mostly organic capacitor class. (Cbm#3 usually). The type you circled usually is a piece of copper spooled around a feretic core. And will go with yokes.

36)missing

37)all go ceramic resistor. (Cbm#3)
I cut the pins. See above.
if you have good shears you can snip the exposed tops for nickel, nickel plate, or silver plate. If it's silver all the way through its nickel. If there's a colour underneath the silver it goes silver or nickel plated brass.

If it sticks to a high power magnet It will be nickel plating. I use a magnet from an old 5¼ inch full hight hard drive. It's extremely powerful cobalt alloy. And has helped sort out even the lightest of stainless alloys. Things the scrap yard would mistake on average. But with recycling the more pure the input the better the output. so i may actually loose a few cents here or there over sorting some things like stainless and nickel classes but the better we presort the better the refiners do, and that helps everyone. Does CoB care about 88/12 vs 90/10? No. But if you sort they won't unsort it. They get better rates so prices go up a bit. They add classes into their system and more people make more money.
CoB now has 8 classes of 300 series stainless. 4 years ago it was all 300. All by word of mouth with people who use them.

Fantastic, thank you.

So in summary-the pins
If it sticks to magnet, nickel plated pins pile.
-If it is silver inside, nickel pin.
If it doesn't stick magnet, silver plated pins pile.

Roughly how much do these classes go for? Especially nickel, I have never dealt with nickel.

Im still working on containers to store this stuff. Using pasta sauce jars :P

Clean nickel is currently between $3.20 and $3.80
General mix bulk rates:
on brass Nickel plate 1.20-1.50
on brass Silver plate 1.25-1.75
On copper is just a few 10ths cents more and I don't sort brass plate from copper plate unless I have dozens of lbs. Anything mixed with copper is considered either brass, or bronze in general. Simply sort by colour: yellow red and gold. (Gold brass is any sort of off-white or vanilla looking yellow. Like uncooked scrambled eggs, etc. Has some sort of white silver or grey metal in it, such as lead zinc, or magnesium)

Light ballasts are around 20c-75c +
All over the board depending on yard.

Cu 1.75-2.25

Cbm#1 90c-1.50
Cbm#2 60-90c
Cbm#3 20-60c
Cbm/CU recovery 10-20c
Cbm shred 5-10c (most metals' shred is only taken at steel yards)

Many yards dont advertise nickel rates of if they buy for multiple reasons. just an fyi. So ask.

Regarding the silver pins and jumpers what if they are slightly magnetic but they don't completely stick to the magnet but they kind of try to. Does that show the difference between solid nickel and nickel plated?

The magnet I use was from a water pump f some kind. Its small but very powerful, has a plastic housing that id rather not take off.


With the jumpers, do you snip them off? I found a chisel is good for the jumpers and the tiny resistors/diodes. Could they be left on board for copper recovery or am I losing money here. Id imagine it is ideal to put them with the pins.

Lastly, how often are the magnetic heatsinks on the lowgrade stainless?

I just took in so much information I may have forgotten my own name. Bravo gents. Excellent thread.